Take filaments of the same diameter of monofilament and fluorocarbon and put them in one glass of water. Now watch carefully to detect the transparency difference of the materials inside the water. Fluorocarbon is a lot harder than monofilament in the short term. Besides, most fluorocarbon lines have thinner diameters than monolines with equal breaking strength.
Nevertheless, this varies from one company to another. This may not appear like much big of a deal to you. People who know how much water monolines absorb can appreciate the water-resistance nature of fluorocarbon lines. The water absorption causes monolines to get weaker over time. Ultimately, rain and humidity, UV rays, and severe temperatures both cold and hot are capable of causing monolines to lose strength.
Meanwhile, fluorocarbon is a lot more resistant to these elements over the long haul. For the majority of us, these conditions are normal during a regular fishing day, which is why you must consider this factor when doing your shopping. Any clipped off pieces that are thrown into the water will be there for a long time without breaking down. Fluorocarbon line has a greater density than water, which explains its sinking nature. While this is very vital for bottom feeder anglers, it is a real issue when drifting, skating flies, or bobber fishing.
On the other hand, monofilament has a proneness to greater diameters. It also has an almost neutral buoyancy, which means it slowly sinks and consequently affects how profound your baits dive.
This drawback, however, makes it a strong point when you want to set topwater lures or do bobber fishing. Most anglers know that monofilament material is fairly stretchy. Simply grasp the leader from each end, pull it, and watch it stretch. A particular degree of stretch helps absorb shock whilst trying to catch a fish. Less stretch causes higher sensitivity to detect the subtle takes.
While fluorocarbon is believed to be less stretchy than most monolines, some manufacturers have refused to agree with this. Again, just curious. To be honest, that started when I was testing out difference in hook up rates between heavier lb test and light test. A few weeks ago, I was fishing at Convict Lake in Mammoth and caught five trout when other anglers near me got skunked.
I currently have on my saltwater reels braided 20 pound line and use a 15 pound fluorocarbon leader and have caught fish with that setup but I am not a fan of braided line. I will try the mono main line with a fluorocarbon leader on one reel and see what happens. Fluorocarbon vs Monofilament and the Surprising Truth. Is Fluorocarbon Invisible Underwater?
November 9, Nick Heid November 9, Use 65 pound-test braid in dense, murky water. Drop down to 50 pound-test in medium cover.
Hard-bottomed spots in Lake Okeechobee, for example, give anglers the challenge of pitching Jigs into 3 to 5 foot deep heavily grassed and wooded areas to find those Bass hoping to gain weight before spawning time.
The water leans toward the murkier side, with color tending to be tannish or brown. When using Treble hooks in long-distance casting scenarios close to the top, consider using a braided line.
Use a 30 to pound test braid when reaching out in topwater where you expect a good fight on the way back to the boat. Give that hook a chance to sink into the mouth with a reduced drag while you wait for them to tire out. Dropshot fishing allows you to suspend free-floating worm or lure about a foot from the bottom, giving an enticing presentation to any fish who happen to pass by.
The sinker rests on the bottom while the bait hovers in the line-of-sight to all fish who pass by. You then have the option of gently flipping the rod, pulling it left to right, or just hopping it along to entice strikes from hungry fish. Dropshot fishing for medium-size Bass or similar, use braided line with fluorocarbon leaders. The braided section should be 10 to pound test, with a 6 to pound leader. You now have a better understanding of the three types of fishing lines offered to anglers shopping in retail and online stores.
Monofilament is the most common and least expensive, the starting point for beginning anglers to purchase and use, so they get to fishing quickly with the least amount of hassle. Monofilament is also commonly used for the backing line on your reel.
Fluorocarbon lines are the next step up from mono. Its density allows anglers to put bait presentations deeper into the water, all the way to the bottom if needed. It is UV, acid, hydrocarbon, abrasion, and water-resistant, so it lasts longer than monofilament while still being flexible enough to make tying knots easy.
It has low visibility, and the plastic derivative origins make it available in many colors. Many anglers will use fluorocarbon as the leader line in front of braided lines, to provide the stretch needed for those long drawn out fights as you bring in Bass from long distance casts.
Fluorocarbon is slightly more expensive than monofilament, but the benefits it offers make the expense negligible once you factor in the longer lifespan and better strength over monofilament. Braided Microfilament offers the highest strength of the three lines due to the multiple strands of small-diameter polymers woven together, giving you a stronger yet lengthier line on your reel.
This comes at a cost penalty of nearly 50 percent over monofilament, so braided lines are to be considered only in specific scenarios. Look to braided lines for casting long distance with treble hooks, and into waters with debris or heavy vegetation that would cause breakage with other line types. Braided lines are also the preferred choice for using Frog bait lures.
What Is Monofilament Fishing Line? Topwater lures will also benefit from the low sink-rate of monofilament. Mono lines come in a myriad of color options for any application. Knot Strength — Tying off the line should not sacrifice integrity or strength.
Mono allows you to run those expensive lures with confidence. Cost — Being the most economical line you can buy, combined with the myriad of tensile-strength choices, investing in several different types of monofilament will always keep you within your budget goals.
Stretching — Monofilament provides a reasonable stretch rate of about 25 percent, should you run into a fish that goes down fighting hard, or hit a snag in murky waters. Beginner Friendly — Monofilament line is flexible, making it easy to work with, allowing beginners to get their rig set up quickly, knots tied off, and into the water with minimal hassle.
It also works well with all types of reels. While we like the failsafe offered from stretching, sensitivity can suffer. Which angling line when? Use all three for the proper fishing application in a given sportfishing situation. Braided , fluorocarbon or monofilament? It has some stretch when you set the hook, but not as much as monofilament. It also tends to be abrasion resistant. A couple rules with fluorocarbon, however. First, you must wet the knot when tying it or it will fail.
Fluorocarbon falls much faster than mono, so use that to your advantage! I use fluorocarbon when casting crank baits, casting wacky worms, Texas rigging, or jigging for walleyes or crappies. Monofilament is probably the most manageable of the three varieties.
Its larger diameter and major stretch works for our bass or panfish presentations such as wacky worms, etc. That can be a real plus factor using plastics or Texas rigging.
We have to weigh sensitivity and speed of the fall we desire in choosing the line. My general rule would be monofilament for jigging for walleyes and for casting crank baits for bass and walleyes because of the stretch factor.
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