Confirm with valid specs. Regarding using standard 12V lights such as MR16 in series, it sounds right to use a higher voltage, but it might will? I have a 36V electric bike which I made some lighting for. Initially I used three 12V MR16 spotlights in series. It worked fine for a while, but then I had a failure.
It may have been a one-off, so I replaced it. Eventually, another failure. I came to the conclusion that, although the bulbs are rated at 12V, they have chip inside to either step down the voltage or regulate the current and they didn't work in series. I suspect one ended up going over voltage and failing. The solution in my case was to buy a stepdown converter and to run them in parallel at 12V.
Since then I have had zero failures of bulbs. Two other things not mentioned: if in series to a higher voltage, one blows, they all go out and with standard led 12V bulbs, there are no issues about which way they are attached to DC as they rectify the current and work happily either way round on DC. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.
Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. LED lights wired in series will not light Ask Question. Asked 4 years, 6 months ago. Active 5 months ago. Viewed 20k times. None of the lights will work. What am I doing wrong? JRE Chad S. Dear Sir Swagatam Hello.
I added a uf filter capacitor to the diagram that had been provided by you and blinkings of the single LED stopped. Thank you for all your efforts and guidance. Here, I should kindly pay your attention to this problem that the values of all of my new and second hand zener diodes of different voltages from 10 to 24 volts 10, 12, 13, 15, 24, 27 are a bit less than half of the amount of the voltage that is printed on them; when measured by Multimeter while illuminating LEDs.
Regarding that my Multimeter is OK, I added a 24 V Zener diode 12 in fact across the string and the dropped output voltage is now 5. I stopped the work and decided to inform you of what has happened. I would be very glad and thankful to have your instructions Sir. Wish you all the best Mike. Thank you Mike, Glad it is working now.
That seems very strange, a good zener diode with a limiting resistor will always show the exact voltage drop as per its printed value. So according to me something may be wrong somewhere, either in the meter reading or the zener diodes, otherwise this problem should never arise. Please add a 1N diode after the 0. Cathode will go to the 0. Dear Sir Swagatam Thank you very much for your feedback and the new modification, kind man.
Any way, am I allowed to use 24v zener which in fact 12v, in place of 12 v zener in your circuit? Thank you so much in advance truly yours Mike. Please test it in this manner to ensure you get the correct reading of the zener value.
Thank you very much for your useful instruction. I congratulate you for being so good and patiently respond to people. Here is the result of your recent diagram: input DC voltage —— Z.
The output voltage was v DC and v AC without load. He who will never forget your kindness Mike. It means you zener diodes are all working correctly, and you can use the desired zener diode as per the requirement. Yes, without the zener diode the output from 0. I appreciate your efforts to solve my problem. Every thing is good now and I am grateful. And my final question please: How much could be the utmost value of 1k resistance in order to have more illuminating LEDs?
Wish you all the best and health Best regards Mike. Thank you Mike, the 1K can be reduced even to ohms, it is not critical at all. It is included in the circuit just to safeguard the zener and the LED from the initial switching surge from the the 0. Once the initial switch ON surge is over, the 0. So you can do two things, reduce the 1K to ohms 1 watt and also increase the 0. Dear Sir Swagatam Hello and thank you very much for patiently solving my problem and taught me a lot about LEDs and etc.
I will never forget what you did for me without any expectation. Please use the formula explained in the above article, it will give you the exact results.. Use 3 LED strings in parallel having 4 leds in series on each string without any resistor. Or Use 4 LED strings in parallel having 3 leds in series on each string with calculated resistors. Having gone through your tutorial, it made a lot of sense, but I have to ask these questions: 1 If you have 60 LEDs of different colours and forward voltages, how do you go about your calculations?
Why is it that your connection has the negative sides connected to the resistor instead of the positive terminals. Treat as urgent! For different color LEDs also the rule will be the same. The job of the resistor is to restrict the current flow passing through the LED string, so it can be anywhere in series with the string. Hello, This is a great site and you do a fantastic job of explaining. Here is my situation. I would like to install 6 boat deck lights, switch controlled, each containing six leds rated for 12v power supply.
This allows advanced lighting patterns, color schemes and designs to be employed. So the same rule should be followed for the addressable ones as the regular RGB ones. We recommend no more than two consecutive strips connected end-to-end.
If you do more, you need to add a separate power bus with higher gauge wire to run the strips down the line, or add additional power supplies down the line. With these strips, the data signal runs through the center wire on all the strips. This wire is okay to consecutively connect end-to-end on as many strips as you want to connect. This is because this wire only carries data.
No power. And the best part is that the controller chips in each LED module on the strips repeats and boosts the signal. So there is no signal loss down the line. I wouldn't do more than about two. You need to run additional power wire for the additional strips down the line. You will notice your strip get dimmer or the color change as it goes further down the line.
This means that you have connected too many strips "end to end" without supplementary power wire, or you don't have a powerful enough power supply, or both. Also, this will likely cause you to need to run supplementary power wire to connect to any strip beyond 2.
You should always use a power supply that is rated at a higher amperage than your project needs. It will generate less heat and last a lot longer.
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