How long ice axe

The design combines a straight lower shaft to facilitate plunging and a slightly curved upper shaft giving an easier swing with better clearance. These axes tend to be 50 to 60cm long. For extra adaptability across a range of walking, mountaineering and low to mid-grade climbing routes, it is possible to get both adze and hammer versions of the axe.

Semi-technical alpine axes come into their own when you need this versatility. One of the best models in this category is the Black Diamond Venom which is beautifully engineered with a modular head that allows different picks to be used. Another option is the the DMM Fly, which sits at the top end of this sector as a great entry level climbing tool.

Fully curved with steep pick angles and protective lower hand rests, the modern technical axe will make any winter climb easier. The curved shaft clears obstacles and presents the pick to the ice at an ideal angle for stable placements. The standard approach is to carry one adze and one hammer. The adze allows you to scrape rime away from cracks or other potential protection placements, or excavate an ice axe belay or bollard. The hammer is there to bash pitons into thin cracks, or to ensure that hex and nut placements are as stable as they can be.

With this combination you will be prepared for pretty much any Scottish winter climb of any grade, though they will really be in their element in the mid to high grades say III to VII. The current Petzl Quark is superb; highly adaptable across different styles of climbing, it can be stripped down as a minimal alpine axe or maxed out with Griprest and Trigrest for leashless climbing on technical routes.

The Black Diamond Viper is the other established king in this category, while the DMM Apex is the new kid on the block with an excellent, aggressive feel.

Dedicated to the art of steep and highly technical ice, mixed and dry-tooling climbs, the latest generation of top end tools has settled around the use of offset handles. The handle is designed to be more ergonomic with a more comfortable wrist position and increased stability on skittish pick placements and shallow hooks.

These top end axes are always used as a pair, usually with minimal hammer set ups rather than with a full size adze and hammer. If you want step-in crampons, keep in mind you need stiff-soled boots with thick welts or grooves at the toe and heel.

Match the flexibility of your footwear with the flexibility of the crampon. Most crampons require a special type of boot, or mountaineering boot. They do not make crampons for hiking boots these are a totally different type of traction device. The reason is because crampons require a stiff-shanked boot in order to stay attached to your boot safely.

During an avalanche, a mass of snow, rock, ice, soil, and other material slides swiftly down a mountainside. Avalanches of rocks or soil are often called landslides. A snow avalanche begins when an unstable mass of snow breaks away from a slope. Do not de-sharpen anything. Use a little tape on the ice axe if you are practicing self arrest for the first time, but remove it as soon as you can.

It will act as the equivalent of a hiking stick. So come on manufacturers let's hear from you. Noel Darlow wrote: In my own experience as a walker rather than a climber, a long axe is vital for safety. It is quite frightening that "experienced" guides can recommend anything different. I think it is very misleading to suggest that it's a question of individual preference. As a dedicated bumslider, I've had a lot of self arrest practice when things get out of control.

An axe with a short shaft won't be much help here. In perfect conditions i. A short axe can still do a decent job in these conditions but it's a desperate business to be bouncing and bumping down a snow slope at high speed so I'll take any advantage I can get. As has been pointed out above, a third point of contact in slippery conditions is going to make it much less likely that you slip in the first place - another clear win for a longer shaft.

The modern use of poles also has great dangers. I've seen new guys using poles only on steep slopes because they don't feel in control of their balance when they switch to their axe - short or long.

Maybe we should set up a comparative test on a steep ft slope ending in a sheer crag and leave it to Darwin to resolve the argument. Nigel Flather wrote: No hard rules could apply to axe lengths, to suit the ever-varying conditions of a mountain environment not to mention different physical types of climbers one can only learn what is best for themselves by practice.

From my personal experience I have found that two axes are best for me. There is no substitute for experience. It would seem to me that many theories are instigated by gear manufacturers who's interests are more profit motivated.

Cameron Bell wrote: After a couple of years walking in summer, I went along to a winter skills course last year which I thoroughly enjoyed - enough to want to go back into the hills in winter for more, on organized outings.

I purchased my ice axe through the company I went out on the course with - who ordered one which was in their opinion the correct size for me - 55cms - I am 5'11" tall. My friend who accompanied me bought his out of a high street store, he is 5'8" and was sold a 60cm axe. For complete beginners like myself you have to trust the advice of experienced qualified people.

We have remained confused and concerned over this for a year. Who if anyone was right? Alan Hunter wrote: Like the previous writer, I am an experienced summer walker who wants to walk in the Winter. I am 5' 8" and was sold a 70cm axe. My appeal to the Professionals is to give amateurs like myself a wide perspective on this and not leave me wondering if I have been sold the wrong thing.

Sam writes: To be honest from a women's point of view I think you are all a bunch of blokes so concerned with making your opinion known and are also worried about the way you look rather than the practical: get out and have some fun rule.

Yes safety is important, but lets face it fun is why we started. Dont be so serious. Get outside and have an adventure on the hills. An anonymous man replies Oww that's below the belt. A few "blokes" including myself are a bit worried about the advice given to use shorter axes.

In summer you don't need a lot of specialist knowledge to wander about in the hills but winter conditions are different. It's not much fun if you break a few bones or worse so it's good to see a forum discussing best ie safest practice. Oliver Francks writes: In my opinion fashion and safe mountaineering do not mix. While short, curved-handled axes are considered an advance in very steep climbs, as far as I am concerned that is where they should stay.

To suggest your average recreational hill climber uses anything else than a good inside leg measurement axe is madness. This was true sixty years ago for my grandfather, who climed the alps all winter long for his work and his enjoyment and it's still true today.

Less showing off and more sense please. Mike Hoare writes: Just had my first and rather scary "in anger" self arrest here in the French Alps where I live. Dropped a piece of kit and in failing light decided to retrieve the 3 Euro item which was stuck on a ledge some 10 metres below.

I misjudged the slope and as the surface began to slough I started a very rapid slide. Was grateful to have had a longer axe 65cm through which I could exert some leverage in the loose packed snow. Climbing back up was also easier in that I was able to bury the shaft deep enough to gain purchase.

Just my 5 p worth. Kevin Woodcock writes: I have read the Mountain Skills book and i think the idea of only using a short axe is mis-leading, especially to beginners. For general mountaineering a longer axe is preferable.

At the end of the day it is about prevention not cure, the longer tool gives natural support when walking up inclines, a short one will naturally tend to bend you over. Many years of wisdom are very seldom wrong. When moving on to steeper stuff shorter is better, you can use long axes on steep routes as long as you have very strong fore-arms to wield them.

One technique often over looked is to take a long and a short, so the long does all the general work and get the short out when it gets steeper, or to bang a peg in. Jason Shuttleworth writes: Great debate!

I thought that it was 55cm for everything alpine, a view shared I note by the needlesports website alpine kit list. Long axes are very handy at times on the hill but can be inconvenient when not in use, for example when on the pack doing rock pitches or absails in the alps. The rise of the short axe seems to accompany the rise of the ski pole, which does many of the jobs of the long axe. Probing crevasses, crossing rivers, acting as a third leg on rough descents, were all once its preserve.

I think for a beginner the note on training is an excellent one, much more important than how long the shaft is.

Like many others I did a winter skills course, and one day had to self arrest in earnest. That I did this automatically and effectively, stopping a slip becoming a disaster was because of the excellent tuition I had had in the past. Specky writes: An ice axe once saved my bacon and size didn't matter at the time. However short is beautiful, and a long axe takes too much wielding and if you are traversing on steep hard snow, it puts your uphill hand up in the air so to speek.

Philippa Simms writes: Can't say I've bothered to get the tape measure out but I guess it must be long seeing as I use it as a walking stick. I'm on the 'long team' - surely it helps to avoid falling in the first place.

If anyone has invented a 'cozy cover' to stop my hands freezing while holding it and rendering any action useless, I'd love to hear.. Rob Gray replies: Philippa, buy some gloves. These can be bought in most good outdoor retail stores and are brilliant for keeping your hands warm. They come in a variety of styles and colors.

Once you've tried them you'll never go back to not wearing them whilst holding a cold axe in winter. Gloves are an excellent way to keep your hands warm when carrying your ice axe in winter there is also an alternative to gloves which are better known as mitts, can be just as effective, best visit one of the various outdoor shops for them to explain them in better detail. Lambert Dizon will be happy to end the discussion : 55,60,65, I do alpine mountaineering.

I'm 5'8 and have a 65cm ice axe. I have no problems in self arrest and it's a good walking stick. If you're going to be splitting a lot of wood, you can go higher. The main thing is that you're comfortable using it. Last Updated: 12th June, Walking axes are typically 50 to 70cm long. Broadly speaking, the taller you are the longer your ice axe should be. However beware of going too long as it may become unwieldy, particularly when self arresting.

Also consider that you should always be holding your walking axe in the uphill hand. Rubby Turra Professional. Do you need two ice axes?

Steep to Vertical Terrain. Otto Ecker Professional. Do I need an ice AXE? The answer is a simple one: you should carry and use an ice axe to carry out self arrest actions if you fall in areas and under conditions where long, sliding falls are possible but you're not walking on actual ice — because an ice axe isn't really meant to be used on ice , despite the name.

Yuneisi Leys Explainer. What is ice climbing called? Ice climbing is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water.

Brigit De Aguiar Pundit. What are the best crampons? The Best Crampons Reviews.